![]() ![]() ![]() So it works fine if you know it has the proper coolant in it from the start. It's says less reliable because someone may have flushed and put in wrong coolant. Some types of coolants aren't compatible with each other. I say less reliable because many times previous owners will flush a system with the wrong coolant (usually when changing a cooling system component) and be unaware of their mistake. Another quick way, although less reliable, is to see what is currently in the car. As with sparkplugs, coolant is one of those things that are best kept to the manual, so follow it's words and you should be in great shape. If it calls out a specific coolant, you already found your answer. "What color coolant should I put in? Before doing anything, it's a good idea to check your owners manual. Peraphrasing does make it sound like you are right, but here's the whole text, In the link/article above read the statement "color is not a surefire way to determine what coolant the vechicle has from the factory-anti-corrosion additives, are what is important, and later in the article states to use what is in your manual that came with the vechicle. Our subaru had yellow, Our Honda CRV has hot pink coolant. My Toyota has hot pink color coolant from the factory. many times you have to buy a case to be able to do this. ask them if they will sell to you dealer price (usually 1/2 the cost). Find a/the distributer for the OEM product (they sell to the oils,coolants,grease, to the OEM dealers). Might? well I remember a technical service bulletin for an american car manufacturer that stated some aftermarket coolant additives would attack their water pump SEALS !!!. However-if you drain it all out and flush with distilled water, fill with an aftermarket that IS compatable with aluminum-you MIGHT be OK. Unless you know the chemical make-up is the same-best not to take chances. And if you mix some that are incompatible some can turn to gell, or turn to sand like stuff (I actually seen this in the bottom of a radiator), or corrode, etc, How nice to make life confusing, pretty much guaranteeing the OEM dealers coolant sales. For instance some americam vechicles can use an organic (some years) or inorganic (some years) or a hybrid of the two. The mixture/compound/chemical makeup is important. If you ever need a top up at all, then use distilled water with perfect safety, even if you dilute the original strength by half, it will still be OK.īeen down this road a time ot two. Mix them all upand you run the risk of having the head corrode away within 5000km or a year or 2. Flush it out a few times properly, then use a different coolant, you'll be fine. I'm sure everyone will understand.Īnyway, keep the same coolant in it, you'll be fine. I have to say though, I didn't listen for long, I was partly asleep for most of it. I do remember listening in to a conversation between my dad, who is an industrial and analytical chemist, and some dude about this same thing, and vaguely remember them shaking their collective heads in a disapproving way, and darkly muttering something unkind about the intelligence or otherwise of the sort of people that would do such a thing (as if everyone in the world had 6 years of Uni in chemistry and 30 years practical to draw on.don't we all? ). If you have the "organic" coolant, but then you mixed the green ethylene glycol into it, it would almost certainly react faster than if you had just tipped in bore water heavily laced with salts. All of these chemicals when mixed by the coolant manufacturer do their job fine (obviously, better quality coolants do the job better though), but when mixed they can also react with each other, sometimes quite strongly. In addition there are also chemicals added to these 4 initial types that are there to prevent icing in cold weather, or to prevent premature boiling in hot weather, or bth. There are 4 common different types of chemicals used in coolants to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion, or reactions between the salts in the water and the alloys/steels in the engine. ![]()
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